Nearly 2 weeks after first landing at Port Aux Basques, Charlotte and I returned to finally begin trekking up the Viking trail towards Labrador.
Arriving at 6 am, fully rested, we hit the road, churning through the miles back up to Cow’s Head.
We only made one unscheduled stop, at Corner Brook, where I had spotted a scenic outlook the last time around, but had not been able to stop at.
Boy, it was a good idea to stop. A perfect day had blossomed by lunchtime, and the view from above the river was stunning.
Cars pulled in to check the views, before quickly moving on, but Charlotte and I took the time to breathe in the view and the clean crisp air.
A couple of local lads pulled in next to me – we got chatting and before you know it they are rolling a ‘cigarette’ to help pass the time – this being one of their usual haunts. As a driver I declined the kind offer, but yet again it just demonstrates how friendly the folks are around here!
Whilst we were sitting and chatting I noticed what looked like a perfect line crossing the river from bank to bank, slowly moving towards us at an unhurried pace. I check a couple of times and it was definitely on the move – the water in front of the line lighter in colour than the deeper blue behind.
I asked what it was, and was informed that it was simply the tide coming in (rather than a freak wave or the like) – the tide varies around a metre between hi and low each day.
I’ve never seen a tide flow up a river so patiently and unyielding – an unhurried yet relentless force of nature that cannot be defied.
Goes to show what can impress you even after all this time.
We hit the road, marched through Gros Morne a second time and stopped in the exact same spot just after Cow’s Head that we did last time for the night.
After all, the opportunity to leave the back doors open to listen to the waves all night is not one to be easily spurned.
A slow travel up Newfoundland’s west coast over the next few days, ended with us arriving in St Anthony, the main town in the great Northern Peninsula.
For here the intent was to check out the historical viking sites, before catching a ferry across to Labrador, a further couple of ferries down the coast before trekking back to Quebec
Even the best laid plans oft go awry – so for a seat of a pants guy like me, this was fraught with danger.
And so it turned out.
The first ferry, across the narrow Strait of Belle Isles is easy – it runs daily (sometimes twice daily) and is a reasonable $35 for a car and driver.
The next step however is a little more problematic. The route is not strictly a ferry – it’s a supply ship that stops at the coastal ports for a few hours and allows passengers and cars on as they can.
I’d had difficulties in getting pricing or a booking, being told to book closer to the time I needed the passage. Since I was finally here and had at least a week to go before I’d make it over there (and was happy to sit and wait another week or so if I had to), I rang and try to lock down the leg.
First there was an issue with Charlotte’s height – 8 ft 2 inches or around 2.5 m, which I didn’t expect on a boat carrying cargo and supplies. Eventually they agreed to take her, but the charge was gong to be $850 – just for Charlotte. Add on my fare and it was well over a grand!
I know boats are expensive, but I can fly home for that.
And I remembered what Architect had told me – flights from Montreal to Cuba were dirt cheap tight now.
A quick bit of interweb sleuthing later and this was confirmed – return flight to Havan from Montreal for $365.
So my choices were a boat for 3 days at over a grand, or a trip to Cuba for $365!
Sorry Labrador – Cuba wins by a long long way.
So the plan had pivoted – tickets to Cuba were booked immediately and I know had a timeline set – 2 weeks to finish off in Newfoundland, turn around and get back to Montreal, before flying to Cuba for 2 weeks.
