There is so much more to see and do in Washington – Arlington, the Pentagon, FBI headquarters. Whilst I do pass the last of these on the bus (tick), time is getting short and I still have to get to Philly, NYC and to the Canadian border.
Charlotte and I head North – to Baltimore, MD. Dubbed “the world’s greatest city” it’s not. It’s drab, dreary and a little on the seedy side. I really only spend overnight here, as there is not a huge amount on offer, other than a recommendation to eat lots of crab (which I do)
From here, it’s off to Philadelphia, PA. As we set out it starts to pour down, the weather dark and gloomy, reflecting the city we are leaving.
I decide that I’d rather spend time warm and toasty in a Starbucks, charging all my devices (i have 5 things to restore electricity) and using their free wi-fi to blog a little and research all things Canadian border crossing (there are too may options of crossing points).
the intended couple of hours ends up more like 5 or 6 and before I realise it, dusk is looming. Looks like an overnight stop in the middle of a nondescript town, but isn’t time poorly spent. I have mapped out an itinerary for my last few days in the States. Philly, NYC, then across to cross the border at Niagara Falls.
The next morning we chugg the remaining distance to Philly. This is Siri’s hometown, though she is still in Cincinatti and we don’t get a chance to catch up. I still get a few recommendations from her, including the best place to eat a Philly cheesesteak.
Oh and as an aside, Siri has finished the artwork she went seeking a muse for from her bike ride. I’ve attached the photos below of her work, as she is now and always part of the family. I personally love them all.
First stop has to be the Museum of Art, not for what’s inside it, but for the two iconic Philly attractions – the Rocky steps and statue.
Parking is not easy, so it’s a bit of hike to get there, though it is a pleasant one through the parks surrounding the museum.
Surprisingly there is an orderly line for photos of the statue, and it soon becomes apparent why. There are a few people milling about, organising the line and offering to take photos of everyone. They offer their services free of charge, whilst advising that they are “temporarily homeless” and any amount that you can spare would be gratefully accepted.
Now I’m no wide eyed innocent, they are far too clean and well dressed to be living on the streets, and one of them has change of a hundred despite it being mid morning, but you have to applaud their audacity. I wait in line, listen to the patter, and when offered my turn to have my photo taken I acquiesce. My “homeless” lady struggles with my ipad holding upside down, before we finally get it right. I slip her a couple of bucks – I don’t need to but I feel it would be churlish not to. Plus it makes for a good story.
From here I walk up the Rocky steps – though plenty of people race up the stairs and do the double fisted victory salute. Perhaps in younger days.
There is plenty to see and do in Philly. Charlotte and I navigate the narrow city streets (they really are very narrow). Traffic is crazy, and as Siri told me once, we even see people turn left from the Right hand lane of 2 on a one way street, regardless for the car in the other lane. I didn;t think this was possible, but apparently it’s a Philly thing.
I find a park, then head out to theLiberty Bell and surrounding historical district. It’s an interesting area, part of the history that Philly is completely steeped in, and takes a few hours to walk around.
By this time I’m hungry, and I have to try that Philly staple – a cheesesteak. Arguments range across the city as to where the best and truest cheesesteak can be found – the debate is a fervid as any differing groups of devotees you can imagine.
Siri has recommended Gooey Looie’s, but it will close before I can get there. She has warned me off the tow most famous places – Pat’s and Geno’s. Some quick research leads me to Tony Luke’s, with one of my online go-tos Food&Wine describing it as “Some people might dispute it but it’s #1, #1, #1.”
I trudge my way to Tony’s via public transport, and make my way inside. I order a classic (the only word I can think of that sounds like I’m not a tourist. but probably identifes me as one, as i quickly learn that locals simply order by additions – onion, mayo, peppers.
It duly arrives, and I chow down. In short it’s a good loose meat roll with cheese. Definitely tasty, and suggestive of that Philly working class background.
The next day I get the opportunity to try Gooie’s version for lunch before we leave. Now Gooie’s is a tiny little deli in a small shopping strip. Cash only, the owner and his workers working at the grill, whilst what I take to be his wife mans the till.
They have a little bit of a problem with my accent – “Cheesesteak” originally is taken as “Chase Bank”, but we soon enough get the order right. Looie is talkative, friendly and suggests I get their most popular version with ketchup and mayo. Who am I to say different.
Now this cheesesteak is huge, wrapped in foil to keep the heat in as there is no in deli dining. It is heavy and warm take it back to Charlotte to enjoy.
I can only manage half before I’m full. It is delicious and gooey, but not directly comparable to Tony’s with the sauce and mayo. I’m not going to make a call – both were great.
And now it’s my last week in the US and I still have NYC and getting to the border. It’s going to be tight.
