A preface and some context.
Kentucky produces about 95% of the world’s bourbon (the other 5% is made elsewhere in the US)
Bourbon, is by US legislation, a “distinctive product of the United States”, the name is protected, a la Champagne, and strict laws exist about what constitutes a bourbon. It must be
- Produced in the United States
- Made from a grain mixture that is at least 51% corn
- Aged in a new, charred oak barrel
- Come off the still at no more than 160 (U.S.) proof (80% alcohol by volume ABV)
- Placed into the barrel for aging at no more than 125 proof (62.5% ABV)
- Bottled at a min of 80 proof (40% ABV)
- Have nothing added to it other than pure water (no colours, flavourings or other adulterants)
Bourbon has no aging requirement, but to be called “straight” bourbon it must be at least 2 years old, and if under 4 years old must have an age statement.
The “sour mash” method is a little like a sour dough bread method, where a small portion of the previous distilled batch is added to the fermenting vat of the current batch as a starter.
I learned all of this and much more over the week of dawdling through the Bluegrass State. But that’s not the reason why I’m showing off here. It’s more the fact that bourbon is a regulated, hugely commercial industry, and the Kentucky Bourbon trail is not just some whimsical trip through 19th century history and charm (which it of course is), but is a product of a formal bourbon association, where members pay to be placed on the trail. It is by its nature both commercial and profit driven, whilst dipping it’s lid to history and tradition.
As part of the trail experience, you can pick up a passport, listing all 9 “official Bourbon trail distilleries”, get each page stamped when you visit, and once done, submit the completed passport for a free t-shirt.
Nice, right. Except that it is estimated that to complete the bourbon trail, each individual, including accommodation, travel costs, purchases etc, spends between $1000 and $2000 USD for a free $20 t-shirt. That’s a nice return for the association and its members.
Cynicism now noted, bar one exception I fell in love with the trail and the other distilleries I visited. Whilst they all tell you roughly the same thing (the grain/fermentation/distilling/ageing) formula, they each do it slightly differently. There is an old world charm to most of them – they are big on sharing history and context, and I must admit I learned something new at all bar one place.
So for the 9 official distilleries, thoughts and pictures as follows:
The Evan Wiliams Bourbon experience – located in the heart of Louisville, it’s not actually at the distillery itself which is a few miles way. What they have done here is use video, sound, scenery (in the shape of tricked out rooms with props etc) to tell a story about the history of bourbon. There is also a really clear video presentation on the distilling process. For mine this is the perfect place to start – especially if you are a bourbon novice as it gives a good overview. At the tasting we toasted Charlotte which was sweet, and our guide snuck me a little taste of a 23 year old bourbon on the side after the tour (apparently I still have a little charm). A thumbs up, even if it misses the single best part of being at a distillery – that gorgeous aroma in the ageing warehouses (or rickhouse).
The Bulleit frontier whiskey experience at Stitzel-Weller – again not located at the working distillery (they are currently building a brand new facility in Shelbyville, KY) but there is a working small batch distillery for proof of concept and test distilling. Again a focus on context and history – for instance I learned that bourbon is currently on a massive worldwide resurgence, finally toppling vodka as the No.1 selling spirit in the world in 2014 (after falling behind in the 70s), which is putting stress on the entire industry and attracting huge investment. Charming, with a lot of preserved historical items like the original column still etc.
The Jim Beam Stillhouse – as the single biggest producer/holder of bourbon barrels in the world (approx 1.5 million 53 gallon barrels at anyone time being aged), this tour is, a little like Jack Daniel’s, professional, well-paced to a set time, and wanders across more acreage than any other. It’s also one of the few to allow self-guided tours (which don’t end in a tasting however). They are steeped in history, in fact the Beam family is perhaps the most important in bourbon history as members of the family are now master distillers at at least 2 other places and they are pervasive in this area. Their tasting is unique – you get the option of choosing ANY 2 products without restriction from their automatic dispensers – one kind gentleman who didn’t drink passed me his token so I got 4). A blueprint on how a large behemoth can run an intimate tour.
Oh and you do get the chance to pick an empty bottle, watch it get cleaned, bottled and capped and then press your fingerprint into the wax seal. Cool.
Four Roses Bourbon – Four Roses actually have 2 locations – their bottling and warehouse facility just around the corner from Jim bean and their actual distillery closer to Lexington. I chose the former, and even at 3 pm I was the sole visitor, so once again got my own personal tour. Four Roses may not be well known in Australia, but their bourbon is pretty darn good. Only word of note here is that if you want to see the distillery itself you can avoid this spot and not miss any of the Four Roses story. Nice but not a must see (at this location)
Not all of these were done on the same day – it was a slow trip south to Bardstown, KY which is a beautiful little town right in the centre of bourbon country.
There I visited my first distillery not on the official trail – Willett Bourbon, on the recommendation of the guide at Bulleit. Wilett is a tiny family owned, funded and operated distiller, and a marked difference to the big boys. From the minute there was an incident with a toad (somewhat crushed by a patron opening the vistor’s centre door with ensuing ickiness and cleanup) to the more relaxed and open tour (we were allowed to put our hands in the fermenting vats and taste the mixture), to it’s quirkiness (it has a uniquely designed still) Willet’s is a pure delight. We were warned that their guides were a but hit and miss – in which case we hit it big time – a charming, friendly southern girl who even took the time to tell me where locals drank in Bardstown. Highly recommended.
From here it was goodbye to the Bourbon Trail for a couple of days, as one of the non-distillery stops I wanted to make – at the cooperage of Independent Stave was not open on the weekend, and I had chores to do such as washing clothes and bed linen.
More on Bardstown, the rest of the trail, and an unfortunate meal that took its toll in part 2.
