Looking out from my balcony onto Charlotte this morning, I can see she is covered in frost/ice/snow.
Last night’s predicted 13 F/Minus 10 C has come to be, and Charlotte is literally frozen solid.
As I would have been if I’d stayed true.
I think she understands this time.
After a careful defrost, it’s time to get on the road.
The scenery is stunningly winterlike – fields of white everywhere.
Its roughly a 2 hour drive – but around half way there is one of the region’s famous roadside attractions – Bedrock City
It’s a little kitshcy, but is placed conveniently just where a stretch of the legs is nice. I wouldn’t stop just for this, but I can see why people do so on the way to the Grand Canyon.
That brief interlude over, it’s onwards to the National park.
Queues are reasonable at the entrance – it takes me about 15 mins to get through – and once again I’m extremely grateful for the advice I got to buy the National parks Annual pass for $80. So far stays and entrance fess have totalled $50, and with the Grand Canyon another $10, I’ve nearly covered the investment.
The gratitude you get from Park employees, and the fuss free entry is just an added bonus.
I follow the other cars up to the village – as I drive I realise my “plans” to camp overnight here might be silly – there is more snow here than Flagstaff.
As I make what appears to be the sole decision to check out the campgrounds, it quickly becomes apparent that there are zero campers anywhere!
The grounds are a foot deep in snow and ice.
Hmm – maybe a re-think is in order.
I head into the main village and, adopting my best sheep mentality, follow all the other cars into a car park, which is only half full.
Now for preparations – for the first time all trip I have to break out the cold weather gear.
It’s not just the temperature, there is a pretty strong breeze whipping around that goes right through you.
Thermal leggings, winter socks, hiking boots and jeans for the bottom half, thermal top, t-shirt, flannel shirt, jumper and overcoat for the top. Plus gloves.
By the time I transform, pack a bag with a few bits and pieces (water, snacks etc) the car park is just about full.
I’ve no idea what day of the week it is – of course it’s Saturday, so I’m sure the tourist hordes are coming in.
The walk to the first viewing point isn’t long – perhaps 8 mins, and the crowds are not too bad.
I cannot imagine what this place is like in the peak of summer season – it must be absolutely horrendous.
As I walk out for my first glance, I do just stop and stare.
It is magnificent. Stupendous. Amazing.
You always here people talk about the grandeur of the Grand Canyon – and it is a particularly apt description.
There is a quiet yet determined majesty to this place – its size can only really be experienced (rather than described), its timelessness dwarfs your own ego, its beauty is drawn with nature’s severe but precise hand.
The next 5 hours are an enjoyable exercise in letting go – much like Death Valley, this place demands that you put down your own significance and merge yourself into nature’s wonder.
Having driven, walked, viewed and otherwise immersed myself in the Grand Canyon for 5 hours, I have to turn my thoughts to what to do next.
Clearly camping overnight is silly given the weather and I have enough time to reach somewhere new (it’s only about 2 pm)
As I disrobe from my cold weather gear, I decide to head East towards Route 66
On the way out from the Grand Canyon I get an unexpected surprise
There are a group of Elk just roaming around the railway crossing.
Minding their own business, but people are starting to notice them and everyone’s heading over for a quick shot.
I submit to the temptation as well – I manage to get a few shots before some EEDJOT decides he just HAS too turn right net to them and gun the engine.
Spooked they run.
Tosser ruined what could have been a lovely little interlude for so many others!
I exit west, taking an alternative route out of the park and head west on the I40/180, which in reality is part of the Old Route 66
As I reach the bottom of the valley, I stop to pick up some Bison jerky (it’s sooo good) and notice even down here there are still remnants of snow
My google maps saved locations show me there are 2 places I’ve marked on this road – I’ll try to get to both before night time
The first is Meteor Crater – the site of the world’s best preserved meteor impact site.
It’s located about 5 miles off the highway, and is privately owned, so admission is a little steep at $18 but I’m here so what the hey.
The visitors centre is actually pretty reasonable – a fair bit of science, some nice videos and effects, and some good information.
The actual crater itself is impressive – big enough to hold 100 NFL fields we’re told!
Following directly on from the Grand Canyon, the crater both suffers by comparison, but benefits from the “nature is impressive” feeling of the day.
It’s a place I’d recommend to anyone travelling through.
Dusk is coming, so I head out on to the road again for the last hour of daylight.
A short drive up the road is the iconic Winslow, AZ.
Part of the historic Route 66, and made part of the musical landscape by the Jackson Brown (songwriter) and The Eagles in Take It Easy, it fell into obscurity when the Interstate bypass, which avoided the town completely, was built in the late 70s.
The town fell into serious downturn until they raised money, including a donation from the band themselves to erect roadside attractions in the town.
Now those are the town’s main attractions.
I have to indulge myself
(Edit – I’m glad I do, as Glen Fry passes away not long after I’ve been)
A quick tour of the old Route 66 road, which still exists, the few other sights the town has to offer, and I’m ready to hunker down for the night.
I find a comfortable stop at the Flying J truck stop, grab the phone and settle down to watch the Robbie Lawler v Carlos Condit title fight.
It’s been a massive day- so rewarding on so many different levels.
Until next time…..
