Well, the expected headache duly arrived this morning, but it was a little less severe than I expected.
It rained for the first time this morning, so not only was I a little fuzzy, but visibility was terrible, which meant my 24 hour delay to visit Cade Estate might result in me missing out on the fantastic view.
So it was with a little trepidation that I set out back to Howell Mountain – and on the drive there I could see mist and clouds obscuring the valley.
“Bugger” I thought.
But in the 10 mins it took to drive up the mountain, this time the non silly way, and the few mins to park and walk, the weather cleared up.
What a place and what a view. The Estate is pretty new, is made 100% from recycled materials, including old denim jeans as insulation, and only fails the Platinum environmental standard because it doesn’t offer a free shuttle bus (which is impractical in the extreme).
A beautiful fire welcomes me, before I stroll into one of the best winery spaces I’ve been in. And the view is outrageous – you can see the entire length of the Napa Valley from here.
I’m the only taster – a couple having moved their 11 am to 1 pm (probably on the back of a hangover) so I get exclusive service. My host is Jackie, who only works here once a week, with the rest of the time at Cade’s sister winery, so she isn’t inured to the view and sees it a little like a first timer each week.
Wine’s are brilliant, rich earthy chocolatey cab savs to die for, and the company just as good. My road trip again causes a stir, with other staff coming out to chat about it. Jackie calls down and organises for me to visit the sister winery Odette, before I again winkle a coupe of extra drops of my favourite tipple prior to bidding all a fond farewell.
I said that ZDs was my equal favourite on reflection and it is tied with Cade – different wineries, different wines, different aspects, but the same brilliant generous service. If you are partial to reds then these both are must do’s if ever you get to Napa.
After Cade I try and drop in to Frog’s Leap winery that Maryanne at ZDs had recommended only to find them closed for the day for a private function. Shame really as she had talked them up, but it’s a perfect example of a first world problem.
I turn around and just around the corner is Rutherford Range. Now Jackie had talked about the Rutherford dust in talking about this region, and its near namesakes in OZ are familiar, so it’s another impromptu choice.
What a complete contrast to yesterday’s wildcard, ZDs. Rutherford is a terrible experience – the wines are poor, my server is more concerned with other groups than me, her patter is formulaic yet comically over the top. This place is all about pulling money from your wallet as far as I can see, at the end of the tasting my server’s comments run through the checklist of gouges – “now you can’t join the Wine club”, “you can probably only get a couple of bottles into your car”… before I cut her off with a “just the tasting thanks”. Whatever you do, avoid this place like the plague
In need of something to brighten me up I drop into Odette, sister of Cade. They expect me – asking me if I’m the guy who Jackie called down for – before letting me chill happily with a glass or two and some pretty straight up chat about their products. One of their club members walks in, happily thanking them for a fantastic time at the last function, so they open up the function room just to show it off again to him, me and a couple of others sipping in the tasting room
They have a brilliant space – I fell in love with the door of all things, and at the end of my little visit with Odette, they even waive the tasting fee. Talk about rekindling the enjoyment – a massive hats off to the guys there who did themselves, Napa and the industry proud. And their wines are really solid too.
Having begun the last couple of days with bubbles, it seems appropriate to finish off with them as well – so a final trip to Domaine Carneros by Taitinger. Housed in a huge mansion, their tasting room is very busy but efficiently run. Because Im a glutton and this is down in pinot area, I ask for an additional glass of the estate Pinot to be added to the normal Reserve tasting, which is already a healthy rack of 4.
I’m left to my own devices, with a few moments of genuine service and attention, as the room is full of families and groups who occupy the staff. I’m happy with that – I”m getting a little talked out today so a few moments alone consuming a wonderful little selection of bubbles and reds is what I need at this stage.
As I sip I people watch – a fascinating collection of tourists here from what appear to be a couple of society type gals, to a clearly exhausted married couple barely containing their 3 kids’ boredom, to extended families getting a head start on Thanksgiving.
Back in the car I notice that one of Emma’s recommendations from last night is directly on my way back to Sonoma, Scribe , so I call in just as the sun is setting. There are a couple of parties here, rugged up against the dropping temperatures, but it’s near closing time. One blanket, 2 quick tastes and a quick play with the local puppy later and my wine tasting day is done.
Back to Sonoma it is for me as its closer than Napa, and again Charlotte is soon happily esconced in “her ” spot. Now tonight the Warriors are looking to break the NBA record for best start to a season, so to Murphy’s sports bar it is. I nurse my drinks here prior to the game, but once it starts it’s quickly clear what the result will be. The general focus turns from the screen to other patrons, where pockets of chat start up. Next to me are a few local lasses, including the owner’s current squeeze. Some chat, a couple of rapid shots and I end up with an impromptu offer of couch/bed for the night (not THAT sort of offer btw).
Given Charlotte is around the corner, and I don’t really want to leave her and my worldly possessions unattended, I politely demur. I don’t really need it, and it would be bad form to impose a well lubricated and more than usually likely to snore Australian on what is clearly not a well thought out offer. They eventually leave, and as the game winds down to it’s inevitable end (the Warrior’s winning) it’s time for a tired and slightly wobbly Valdis to drift off as well.
Another headache clearly awaits in the morning – but there will be plenty of time to be dry on this trip, and this has been wine country after all. Plus one of the nicest, safest spots I’ve found so far for Charlotte mean the morning won’t have to start at the crack of dawn.
Thanksgiving is around the corner for the US – I give thanks for the last 2 days as I slide into my sleeping bag, pull the blanket over my shoulder and slip somewhat gracelessly into wonderful dreams.
